"Maybe some other time of year, Venice."
Recall in the
previous installment, I dropped the camera doing my signature side-veritas shots in Portofino. Idiot. But there was still one more city--Venice--on our itinerary. How sad would it be to not capture Venice for posterity? Well, maybe not that sad. The problem was the lcd panel on the camera wasn't working -- so we couldn't see what we were taking pictures of. I didn't want to buy another camera, but I didn't want to miss the rest of our honeymoon either! So I took my chances and snapped images randomly. Most were blurry...
as the macro function was on (so only close-ups were clear).
Maybe it didn't matter. Because, I gotta say, we were loathe to be in Venice. The first thing that hits you is the chaotic, giant parking lot filled with confused tourists waiting to get on the water taxis. We stayed in the Academia area of the lagoon. It was quiet and peaceful, I must say. But on our last night there, a water main broke, and we couldn't shower. They gave us bottled water. So we washed our faces and did a sort of towel bath. How romantic.
Moving on...ostensibly, we were there to see the art biennale, but the crowds were crushing and it had the overall feel of a giant tourist trap with watered down menus. There were actually signs that read, "Menu Touristico". Really. So we spent most of our two days there hiding in back alleyways and coming out at dusk. Like vampires, I guess. But the crowds were non-existent early morning and early evening.
Doesn't Mr. P's face say it all?
I will say that the light was always perfect. Here, I am on Plaza San Marco the second evening. It was actually quiet, and images of Katherine Hepburn in 'Summertime' flashed before my eyes.
We also went to the Peggy Guggenheim, which was just a few steps away from our hotel. And it was lovely. Here we are on the museum's veranda (as captured through the lense of a busted camera.) And one afternoon, on a way back alley, we found a little spot, with no one around and no menu touristico. The food was magnificent. Here's a salad of grilled octopus with orange and fennel.
And on our last night there, we had a nice meal on the patio in a neighborhood close to ours...
...which included a little ravioli
...and Champagne. We learned to like the spumantes and Perseccos, but there's nothing like the real deal. Sacrilege, perhaps, given we were in Italy. But we were at that point tired and a bit disappointed (though still basking in our newly married status), and needed some comfort...
I think we need to go back to Venice one Fall. The locals say that it's the best time of year, as the tourists wind down and things are still open. So, perhaps, on some anniversary, we will get to see Venice for all its beauty.
Overall, I really enjoyed our honeymoon. Mr. P did a great job. We relaxed, recuperated, and enjoyed some wonderful food and memories!
*****
HIGHLIGHTS (for those who are interested):
BELLAGIO
1. Hotel Florence for accomodations and dinner
2. Mistral for dinner. The one Michelin-starred restaurant has a great 6-7 course tasting menu and the service is definitely professional.
3. Bilacus for dinner. Okay food; very romantic ambience. Get the corner table overlooking the steps.
4. Villa Balbianello. A must see.
5. The point. A back area above the town where the locals live and you can get a glimpse of the bay and village life. Very sweet.
ITALIAN RIVIERA
1. Santa Margarita Ligure. Stay in this town rather than Portofino, as it is a little more exciting and less expensive.
2. Grande Hotel Miramare. Great views of the ocean, its own beach club, old school charm, great service.
3. Eat along any of sidewalk places to people watch.
4. Manuelina in Recco. An out of the way place in an ugly town with FABULOUS food. Family-owned, it's where the locals go. And they invented the famous focaccia formaggio. Out of this world.
5. Market in Camogli. Just visit Camogli. It's beautiful in a non-glamorous way.
6. Portofino. Stay at the Splendido if your pockets are heavy. They'll be lightened tremendously. Great shopping. A little touristy.
VENICE
1. Skip it. Just kidding.
2. Get lost in the vast maze of alleys
3. Avoid menu touristico
4. Harry's for a drink
5. A gondola ride along the smaller canals
******************************
